Installing a 68RFE the Right Way: Complete Step-By-Step + Relearn, Fluids & Troubleshooting

If you’re putting a new or reman 68RFE into a Ram with the 6.7L Cummins, the install process matters as much as the parts. Most failures we see after an install trace back to three things: dirty coolers/lines, skipped Quick Learn/drive-learn, or wrong fluid/procedure. This guide distills our in-shop checklist into a clean, followable format so your Monster 68RFE lives a long, cool life.

Covers: 2007–2021 Ram 2500/3500 6.7L (2WD/4WD) with 68RFE • StreetMonster, SportMonster, TrackMonster

Do This First (Shop Checklist)

• ☑️ Read the warranty statement with the customer and fill the top section of the warranty form.
• ☑️ Confirm access to an OE-level scan tool (WiTech/StarMobile/StarSCAN or equivalent). Code readers won’t cut it.
• ☑️ Record CVIs (Clutch Volume Indexes) from the original unit before Quick Learn.
• ☑️ Flush or replace coolers and lines (heated back-flush machine preferred). Aerosol-in-a-can is not acceptable.
• ☑️ Install the appropriate line-pressure solution:
  • 2007–2018: OK to use a pressure module or TCM tuning (not both for pressure).
  • 2019–2021: TCM tuning required for higher line pressure on Sport/Track; do not use inline modules.
• ☑️ Complete Quick Learn + Drive Learn at the customer’s normal power level (tow/Street/Tune).
• ☑️ Fax or submit the completed warranty sheet (keep a copy on file).

Tools You’ll Need

• Scan tool: WiTech (07–current), StarMobile (07–current), StarSCAN (07–09) or aftermarket with full OE coverage (Snap-On Modis, AutoEnginuity + Dodge EI04, etc.).
• 300 psi oil-filled gauge with ~6 ft hose and 1/8" NPT male fitting (for pressure verification).
• Chrysler cooler line tool #9546, barring tool #7471B, standard hand tools, torque wrenches.

Fluids & Maintenance

• Fluid: Only ATF+4 (MOPAR or approved equivalent). Wrong fluid = clutch damage and shudder.
• Early service: First fluid & filter change at 3 months or 5,000 miles (8,000 km), then follow OE intervals.
• Cooler policy: Heated back-flush machine required; if debris is present, replace the cooler & check valve.

Tuning Notes (Read Before You Begin)

• 2007–2018: If you run a pressure module, disable any tuner line-pressure changes (avoid double-stacking). Raising 4-5 & 5-6 shift points via tuning is fine. Perform drive-learn at the normal power setting and avoid full-throttle shifts until CVIs stabilize.
• 2019–2021: Use TCM tuning for higher pressure (Sport/Track). Inline modules are not recommended. Typical WOT target ≈ 250 psi (tuner-controlled). Ask your tuner for the appropriate workaround for factory strategy at elevated pressure.

Removal (High-Level)

1. Disconnect battery, raise/support truck, remove skid plates and drain fluid.
2. Mark shafts/flanges; remove rear driveshaft (and front if 4WD).
3. Remove exhaust support at bellhousing; dust shield; rotate flexplate and remove converter bolts.
4. Unplug ISS/OSS, solenoid/TRS, and line pressure sensor (inspect for corrosion under the yellow cap—replace connector if corroded).
5. Disconnect differential pressure sensor, shifter cable, fill tube bolt, and cooler lines.
6. Support engine, remove crossmember/mount, PTO/vent/transfer case (if equipped), remaining bell bolts; walk unit back off dowels. Keep the torque converter seated.

Cooler Service (Non-Negotiable)

Back-flush with a heated machine until clean. If the old unit failed or there’s debris, replace the cooler and check-valve assembly. This is a core warranty requirement and the #1 protector of your new build.

Torque Converter Prep & Install

1. Deburr/polish hub & flats (800–1000 grit) if needed. Verify hub O-ring is intact. Lube pump seal.
2. Pre-load the converter with ~5 quarts ATF+4 (Mopar or approved). Install brass drain plug (where applicable).
3. Engage gently while rotating; confirm full seat (converter lugs ~1" in ahead of case face). Retain with a C-clamp until mounted.

Transmission Install (Key Torques)

1. Grease crank hub pocket lightly; align dowels, guide fill tube, and snug two bell bolts. Confirm converter still rotates freely.
2. Bellhousing to block: 50 ft-lb (68 N·m).
3. Converter to flexplate: 65 ft-lb (88 N·m) with threadlocker. Correct bolt length only (long bolts will ruin the converter clutch).
4. Transfer case nuts: 26 ft-lb (35 N·m). Mount to crossmember: 35–50 ft-lb as listed. Inspection cover: 88 in-lb (10 N·m).
5. Reconnect harnesses (use dielectric grease at the line pressure sensor), shifter cable, vent, cooler lines, and fill tube bolt (88 in-lb / 10 N·m).
6. Driveshaft torques (typical): Front axle 21 ft-lb, Front t-case 65 ft-lb, Center bearing 40 ft-lb, Rear 85 ft-lb.

Fluid Fill (Capacities) & First Start

*Secondary fill accounts for converter preload and final top-off after cooler/TC charge. Always set level on the dipstick with the truck idling, in park, at temp.

Start the engine, don’t drive yet. Let the pump fill the converter and cooler. Re-check level and top up as needed.

Quick Learn (Mandatory)

1. Connect the scan tool, clear old DTCs, and record original CVIs on your warranty sheet.
2. 2019–2021 only: Run Program Torque Converter PI Curve and enter the provided code.
3. Run Quick Learn (Misc/Special Functions). If your tool doesn’t support it, stop here—do not road test.
4. Record new CVIs after Quick Learn. Perform EMCC/TCC reset if the menu is available.

Line Pressure Check (Sport/Track)

• Idle: ~60 psi in Park (no brake). Brake on or in gear ≈ ~120 psi.
• WOT (loaded test in 4th, locked): ~250 psi target (use tap-shift to hold gear while learning is incomplete). Do not let it upshift at WOT during initial learn.

Drive Learn Procedure (How We Do It)

1. On a quiet, flat road, perform very light throttle 1→4 upshifts. Repeat until shifts are consistent.
2. Increase throttle slightly and repeat. Once 1–4 are clean, allow 5th & 6th (they share clutch elements).
3. Do several N→D and N→R garage shifts to clean up engagement feel.
4. When shifts stabilize, work up to 30–60% throttle through the range. If you feel flare/bump, return to light-throttle learns and repeat.

Customer note: No heavy towing/hauling for the first ~300 miles of mixed stop-and-go while the TCM adapts. First fluid/filter at 5,000 miles.

Field-Replaceable Solenoid Pack (Important)

For 2011–2018 Monster 68RFEs, use the 2008–2010 “white-connector” universal solenoid pack (Chrysler 68353383AB) if you must replace the pack. A gray connector may be painted white by us—functionally equivalent to the white pack.

2019–2021: If you replace the VB/Solenoid/TCC solenoid, scan the new QR code and re-program the PI Curve in the PCM before driving.

Common Install Pitfalls We See (and Fix)

• P0868 (Low Line Pressure) at idle: Often a pressure module/connection issue. Remove the box and retest; stock pressure should return. At WOT, compare mechanical gauge to scan tool. <230 psi? Suspect cooler restriction/flow—replace cooler & check valve.
• P0871 (TFP Sensor) after a solenoid swap: Wrong pack used. Install the 08–10 white-connector pack (68353383AB) on 2011–2018 builds.
• Harsh/late garage shifts, early drive-offs “clunk”: Repeat garage-shift learn and light-throttle upshift learns until CVIs stabilize.
• Converter won’t fully seat: Verify triple engagement & measure: lugs ≈ 1" ahead of bell face. Never force the case home with bolts.

Real-World Shop Notes

• Corroded line-pressure connector = chaotic pressure, broken shafts. Pop the yellow insulator and inspect. If green/crumbly, replace the connector—don’t “clean and send.”
• Cooler flow test: We look for ~1.5 GPM at idle into a clean bucket. If it can’t hit that, replace the cooler.
• Power level discipline: Pick a tune and stick with it. Constantly changing tuner power forces the TCM to re-adapt, accelerating wear.

Helpful Links

• All Monster 68RFE Transmissions
• SportMonster 68RFE (Best Seller)
• How to Properly Install a Transmission (Video)
• 68RFE Torque Converters

FAQ

Q: Can I skip flushing the cooler if the pan was clean?
A: No. Heated back-flush is required. If debris is present, replace the cooler & check-valve. This protects the new unit and your warranty.

Q: What fluid should I use?
A: ATF+4 only (Mopar or approved equivalent). Anything else risks shudder and clutch failure.

Q: Do I need tuning for a StreetMonster?
A: No—StreetMonster is built for stock control strategy. Sport/Track builds (2019–2021) require TCM tuning for line pressure.

Q: My scan tool can’t perform Quick Learn—now what?
A: Don’t road test. You need an OE-level tool (WiTech/StarMobile/StarSCAN or equivalent). Quick Learn is mandatory.

Q: How soon can I tow heavy?
A: After ~300 miles of mixed stop-and-go drive-learn and a confirmed clean shift pattern. First fluid/filter at 5,000 miles.

Need help? Call our tech line at (800) 708-0087. We’ll walk you through scan tool menus, pressure checks, or any learn steps.